Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Three Colour Smoky Mushroom Napoleon


If you've been reading Golubka for a while, you might have noticed that we are a bit obsessed with cooking in layers. Whether it's a savoury meal, salad, or dessert, we sure love to layer.

If I think about it, this way of cooking certainly evolved from memories of our kitchen back in Russia and my mother's culinary experiments. Many delicacies were cooked or served in layers - that's what makes them so appealing to us.
The layering allows for fitting more flavours into one dish, and therefore more complex results. This napoleon certainly is on the complex side, a bit grown up, if you will.

I love infusing things with tea, it always helps achieve new, unique flavours. The tea, that we use on the mushrooms is called Lapsang Souchong, which is traditionally dried with smoke over burning pine-wood. This method gives the tea a wonderful, rich and smoky taste.
The coconut crust tastes just like real phyllo dough. It takes opening a few young coconuts, but you'll get to enjoy all that rejuvenating coconut water in the process.

It is entirely possible to simplify this dish. You can take out the smoky tea, for instance. Or substitute the caramelized onion cream with a simple cashew cream instead.
We served this napoleon with a salad of fennel, citrus, and avocado. It turned out to be a very satisfying meal to have in this cool weather.

Before we let you go to enjoy your Thanksgiving, we'd like to share a few links.
There is an interview with me on Healthy Happy Life, thank you Kathy!
Golubka is among other wonderful blogs mentioned in Bon Appetit's article on gluten-free and vegan Thanksgiving.


Coconut Crust Sheets
3-4 cups fresh meat of young Thai coconut
1 cup coconut water - more if needed
turmeric, paprika, and basil - to achieve different colours

Blend all the ingredients in a high-speed blender until completely smooth, adding more coconut water if needed. The amount of coconut water and resulting coconut crust can vary depending on the coconut meat quality. Thicker meat, from more mature coconuts, will require more water, and therefore will yield more crust.
If making the napoleon in different colours, like ours, divide the mixture into 3 parts. Leave one in the blender and add turmeric, paprika, or basil to achieve the desired colour. Remove the coloured mixture onto a Teflex dehydrator sheet, and continue with other colours, one at a time. Spread each coloured mixture onto a Teflex-covered dehydrator tray, and dehydrate at 115F for 2 to 4 hours, until the the surface is dry. Flip over and carefully peel away the Teflex sheets. Cut each coconut sheet into 8 rectangles, or into any size and shape you prefer. Take care, as they will be very thin and delicate. Dehydrate for another 30 minutes or so, to make them completely dry.


Caramelized Onion Cream
(adapted from Raw Food/Real World)
3 medium onions - sliced thinly
juice of 1 lemon
1/8 cup nama shoyu
1/2 cup brown rice vinegar
1/4 cup Jerusalem artichoke syrup or raw agave syrup
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper - to taste
1 small red chili pepper
3 cups walnuts - soaked for about 2 hours
1 clove garlic - coarsely chopped

Cover the onions with warm water and lemon juice for 30 minutes, then drain and rinse thoroughly. Combine the nama shoyu, vinegar, and syrup. Pour this mixture over the onions and let sit for 30 minutes. Drain, leaving a little liquid, and spread on Teflex-lined dehydrator trays. Dehydrate at 115F for 24 hours or until crispy. Then blend the onions in a high speed blender with 1 1/2 cups of purified water, chili pepper, and a pinch of salt.
In a food processor, pulse the walnuts and garlic with a pinch of salt to achieve tiny granules. In the food processor, add the onion mixture to walnuts and mix until a paste-like consistency is achieved.

Smoky Mushrooms
1/2 tablespoon loose Lapsang Souchong tea leaves - available at specialized tea stores
1 small shallot - peeled and diced
1/2 tablespoon nama shoyu
1 tablespoon umeboshi plum vinegar - you can use apple cider vinegar or another type of vinegar instead
1/4 cup light white wine
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large tomato cut in chunks
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
about 2 cups of oyster mushrooms or any mushrooms of your choice

Blend all the ingredients, except the mushrooms, in a high-speed blender until smooth. Mix in with mushrooms (slice them if needed), and marinate in the refrigerator for a couple of hours, or overnight. Dehydrate at 115F for an hour or two.

Assembly
Start with laying down the coconut sheets one on top of another, three pieces at a time. Top each layer with onion cream and mushrooms, followed by another set of coconut sheets. Alternate your layers until all coconut sheets are used up, unless you're making more than one napoleon. The assembly depends on the size and number of coconut pieces you cut, and the design of napoleon that you decided upon. In any case, finish with a coconut layer, sprinkle with crushed coriander and pistachios and optionally garnish with fennel fronds. Let it sit in refrigerator for about an hour before serving. The napoleon holds very well in the refrigerator for a couple of days. Although it is very good if served right away, it becomes even better after some time in the fridge, when flavours are fully integrated.

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Caramelized Onion Bread with a Green Olive Tapenade


I spent the other weekend visiting Paloma's big sister in New England. I was looking forward to seeing beautiful foliage, which we lack here in Florida. We got a snowstorm instead. Sunday morning surprised us with fresh snow laying on the yet green lawns, and sparkling in the bright sun. We were the lucky ones who didn't loose power. It was very exciting to be able to catch a little bit of two seasons in one short trip, especially because we hardly experience them in Florida.

As for being back home, we opened the windows and turned off the air conditioner this weekend. The air is finally crisp and even chilly enough to get us thinking of building a fire in our fire place. (Yes, ironically, we have a fire place!) The next thought, of course, is of comfort food.

At this time of year it has to be something rich, nourishing, earthy. Bread.
I've been looking forward to sharing this recipe very much
, only because it is really good. Raw bread is tricky. I've made a few varieties before this one, but none tasted quite right. There is always a certain strange note, which gives away the fact that the bread hasn't been baked.
Well, the caramelized onions change everything. They make the bread flavourful, wholesome, and entirely bread-like.

This bread does not need much in terms of toppings. It can easily be enjoyed on its own, eaten like an onion pie. But there can never be enough olives, as far as I'm concerned. We always have a jar of whole olives in the fridge. Paloma eats them as a snack in daycare, and they are great in all kinds of salads. This tapenade is incredibly quick and easy to make, and wonderful on any breads or crackers of choice.
Cozy up and enjoy the season.


Caramelized Onions
5 large onions - sliced thinly
juice of 1 lemon
3/4 cup dates - pitted
3 tablespoons nama shoyu
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup brown rice vinegar
1/4 cup water or more for thinning

Cover the onions with warm water mixed with the lemon juice for 30 minutes. Rinse well and drain. Combine the rest of ingredients in a blender and add to the onions. Let sit for about 30 minutes. Drain the excess liquid. Dehydrate at 115F for 15 hours or until crisp.
In a food processor, add 1/2 cup of soaked and dehydrated pecans or walnuts, and pulse together with the caramelized onions into medium sized pieces - this step is optional. Set aside.

Onion Bread
(adapted from Immer Wachsen)
1 cup raw, sproutable, gluten-free oats - soaked and dehydrated
1 cup raw sunflower seeds - soaked and dehydrated
1 cup psyllium husks
1/2 cup flax seeds
1/2 cup hemp seeds
1 teaspoon sea salt

2 cups purified water
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup Irish moss gel
1 tablespoon raw honey
juice of 1 lemon

Combine all the dry ingredients in a high-speed blender, grinding into flour. You may need to do it in two batches. Alternatively, use a coffee grinder to grind the grains and seeds. Pour the flour into a food processor.
Combine the rest of the ingredients in a high-speed blender until smooth. Add the liquid to the flour mixture in a food processor and mix together. Transfer the mixture into a medium bowl, add the caramelized onions and combine well.
Shape the bread into a desired form, using your hands (wetted) or a spoon. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle with sunflower/sesame/poppy seeds and sprouted quinoa.
Dehydrate at 115F for about 8 hours, then slice into pieces and dehydrate further until dry enough, or to you liking.

Green Olive Tapenade
1 1/2 cups green olives such as Castelvetrano or Green Cerignola - pitted
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil
1 handful fresh dill or parsley
freshly ground black pepper

Chop the olives and herbs into small pieces and mix in the rest of the ingredients. Or combine everything but the herbs in a food processor, adding the herbs at the end to combine.